From Round to Square (and back)

For The Emperor's Teacher, scroll down (↓) to "Topics." It's the management book that will rock the world (and break the vase, as you will see). Click or paste the following link for a recent profile of the project: http://magazine.beloit.edu/?story_id=240813&issue_id=240610

A new post appears every day at 12:05* (CDT). There's more, though. Take a look at the right-hand side of the page for over four years of material (2,000 posts and growing) from Seinfeld and country music to every single day of the Chinese lunar calendar...translated. Look here ↓ and explore a little. It will take you all the way down the page...from round to square (and back again).
*Occasionally I will leave a long post up for thirty-six hours, and post a shorter entry at noon the next day.
Showing posts with label Hunan province. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hunan province. Show all posts

Monday, February 27, 2012

Divinatory Economics (4)—Sacred Mountain Incense-d

For the introduction to the Round and Square series "Divinatory Economics," click here.
[a] In-between RL
The next half-dozen posts center on a research question I have been pondering for some time—the way pilgrims spend their incense on China's southern sacred mountain (南嶽衡山). I gave a lecture on the topic at Erlangen University in November, and then expanded some of that work into an Asian Studies Faculty Research Seminar—an ongoing series in the Beloit College Asian Studies program—in December. Although I will be continuing my research and writing on this subject, I thought that this might be a good time to begin exploring in depth some of the implications of "divinatory economics." If you have not read the introduction to the series, I would recommend it as the place to begin. If you have, settle in for a series of posts that describe the Chinese mountains (the first post, below, re-covers some of the territory from the Longevity Mountain series so that readers without that background are "ready" to spend their incense). I have tried to make these posts reasonably entertaining—even the "theoretical" sections to come next week. 
1          2          3          4          5          6          7          8          9         10

Religiosity In-Between
There is a good deal of “religiosity” (most of it, in fact) between these two extremes, and that is the bulk of what I wish to consider here. Nonetheless, the extreme cases help us to delineate some of the key features of what I call, in slightly combative terms—at least in the realm of the humanities—divinatory economics. Three key elements must be considered, for every one of them plays a significant role in the calculations of pilgrims. Of importance, though lesser consideration, are the costs of travel to and from the mountain, staying near the mountain, food and drink, as well as costs of going to sites in the area (such as Mao’s birthplace). These are hardly inconsequential, but they pale in comparison to the key religious calculations we shall consider here.

·  Supplication at both the base temple and peak temple
·  Means of transportation from base to peak
·  Allotment of yuan for incense, hell money, and other accoutrements.
[b] Peak RL

These are the invariables, as it were, in the divinatory equation. Everyone participates in religious activity at the base and the peak. Everyone “goes up” the mountain in some way (and this is dizzyingly variable). Everyone, consciously or not, makes choices about the amount to be paid for incense and other items. The range of financial, social, and even “cultural” choice in just these three items is considerable, and I maintain that all other factors pale in comparison to these three “market” (and marketing) choices.

From these three key elements—shared even by the “extremes” we have encountered thus far—we can add the choices that guide and vary the situation for individuals and small groups. I cannot stress enough that divination on the Southern Mountain makes no sense without a pilgrimage from base to peak. The foundational sacrifice (in ancient times called the feng) and the peak sacrifice (called the shan) were the poles of an out-and-back journey that was completed by the performance of another ceremony at the base to complete the experience. In-between, imperial journeys varied between uneventful flights up the mountains (pausing for tea and contemplation along the way) and terrifying ascents and descents under the strain of frightful weather and overly eager carriers.
[c] Choice RL

Yes, carriers. Every significant “climber” before 1800 (I am being overly careful here) was carried up the mountains by attendants. There were (basically) two options until 1950. Be carried or walk on your own. Even these simple variables were somewhat more complicated in earlier eras. For example, “carrying” for wealthy patrons meant being carried by men in a palanquin of sorts (these varied over the ages). It could also mean horses and donkeys, not unlike experiences today for many people exploring the Grand Canyon. Mt. Tai, in particular, has several sections that are so steep that horses cannot manage the ascent. There is a famous arch on Mt. Tai dedicated to precisely the ridge (it is about forty percent of the way up the mountain) where “the horses turn back” (迴馬嶺). Donkeys are far more adept at, say, fifteen percent grades, but even donkeys cannot manage the final stairway to heaven that comprises the last five hundred or so meters up China’s most famous mountain. Truly, up the “eighteen bends,” it was a matter of walk or be carried. Emperors were carried. Peasants walked. Even in, say, 1100, there was some room for variation.

Today that variation is enormous. On the southern sacred mountain (the focus of our study), the range is greater than ever. Even in early times, donkeys could manage the entire route on the southern mountain. This is different in kind from all four of the other sacred mountains, where certain parts of the ascent and descent make only human movement (in one form or another) possible. On Longevity Mountain today, though, the twenty-first century variables are difficult to choose from, much less analyze. Here is a gradation from emphasis on walking to carriage of one kind or another.

·      Walking from base to peak (and even this cannot ever by “complete”).
·      Bus to South Heaven Gate (南天門) and walk to peak (another hour).
·      Bus to mid-mountain followed by hike to peak (two to three hours).
·      Bus to mid-mountain followed by cable car to South Heaven Gate, 
       followed by the hike to the peak (another hour).
·      Motorcycle to the peak.
·      Car to the peak.
·      Motor up (by any of the above means) and hike down.

Of course, it is possible to conjure plausible variations even within these parameters, but none significantly change the key “equations.” One might expect an entire mountaintop taxicab/cycle economy, with cars and motorcycles waiting for the throngs who get off buses at South Heaven Gate, an hour from the Zhurong Temple at the peak. This is not the case, and the few cabs or motorcycles I have seen (I always make it a point to talk to the drivers about why they are waiting there) have been “abandoned” by their patrons, who chose to take another way down the mountain.
[d] Carriage RL

There is one further variable—a small one in an economic sense, but an enormous one in terms of culture and power dynamic. At no other point on the mountain today does one see what appears right after a ten-minute hike down a small valley and steeply up to a small rest area on the hike to the topmost temple. With about thirty- to fifty-minutes of walking left for most pilgrims, the chairs appear. For a fee, one can be carried up the rest of the climb by two men hoisting a palanquin held by sturdy bamboo handles. It is a vestige of earlier times, when hierarchy, demand for labor, and pilgrimage made this the most common form of transportation for any pilgrim “of means,” and is a distinct reminder about the historical and, indeed, structural nature of all economic transactions.

Aside from being carried to the Zhurong Temple, everyone—even those who ride motorcycles or drive cars—must walk the last half-kilometer of slowly ascending steps to the temple proper. It is possible (unlike the matter on a sacred mountain such as Mt. Tai, where a good deal of hiking and steep climbing is required even of bus and cable car riders) to avoid walking almost from the time she finishes burning incense at the base temple until this last half-kilometer.
[e] Homestretch view RL
1          2          3          4          5          6          7          8          9         10
NEXT
Variations on a Temple Theme
Tomorrow, we'll look at the variety of ways that people make choices about transportation, supplication, and shared experience.

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Longevity Mountain (3)—Road to South Peak

During the last two weeks of July and into early August I will be posting segments from my project dealing with five Chinese mountains that are often referred to as "the sacred mountains of China." They represent each of the "five directions" found in early Chinese thought (think of the ones you know and then add the middle as the fifth); they have figured prominently in Chinese political culture, travel, and religion for 3,000 years. I have spent almost 400 days on the mountains, and am working on a series of books that detail the mountains and their "home" areas. Mountains were said to connect earth (thought to be "square") with heaven (thought to be "round"). The entire project is called—this may or may not surprise you—Round and Square.

One volume is planned for each mountain, beginning with the southern peak, Mt. Heng, in Hunan province. The reasoning behind this choice of a starting place took me months to develop, but suffice it to say that these books will take the reader up and down each of the five sacred (sometimes called "Daoist") mountains and around the lunar calendar in an exploration of Chinese life and culture. As an introduction to the series, I have included an introduction that is based on a recent book proposal and a full "sample" table of contents. These are followed by nine "scenes" from Longevity Mountain that are meant to give readers a sense of the project as a whole. Photographs used in this series were taken during my travels, unless otherwise indicated. My photos are marked "RL."

Scene Three
The Road to South Peak
Leaving the Changsha south bus station, I begin the three-hour trip to the village of Nanyue. In English, we’d probably call it “South Peak.” Each major city in China has four bus stations, reaching out in all directions to the countryside. With a major train station in the city’s center, it creates a kind of diesel-fueled twist on the five-direction, five-mountain theme of early Chinese cosmology. For the most part, the locations are obvious—southerly destinations leave from the southern station, northerly destinations from the northern station, and so forth. To give a North American reference, let’s say you are in Cleveland and traveling to Toronto; you would leave from the northern station. 

Occasionally though, it is a bit tricky, and it is always better to ask than to guess. One summer day in Hangzhou I planned to take the bus due west to 九華山, Nine Flowers Mountain, in Anhui Province. When I bought my ticket, I told the attendant “jiuhua shan.” She promptly told me the price, took my money, and gave me a ticket for...Yellow Mountain, to the southwest (or west-south, as the Chinese say). Undoing the process, and getting my money back, I finally learned that the bus to westerly Nine Flowers Mountain leaves from the north station.
[b] Town  RL
We are in the southland now, and my bus—a thirty-seat “mid-size”—pulls out of the station, drives a kilometer or two through Changsha industry to Zhongyi First Road, cuts through a “no-entry” exit lane, and weaves through six lanes of flying traffic (three lanes each way, with no median). I might have preferred waiting at the stoplight for the left turn signal to this particular shortcut. I calm down when I no longer see trucks and buses barreling headlong toward the windshield, and vow to look out the side windows, if only to keep terror at bay.

The pace slows, and I sit, riveted by the unfolding picture of the southern summer agricultural season—the lush rice fields, the little gaggle of goslings being led toward the stream by a sauntering owner with a long directing stick, the oxen in the fields, slowly pulling ancient plows through knee-deep mud. Every meter of ground seems planted, terraced, and tended (with curiously small bodies—the result of stooping…while standing up to the knees in mud). I can’t even make out knees in most cases, but heads are everywhere—some covered by traditional straw triangle hats, some with black wads of hair in the sun, and one or two with NBA logo caps.

The clusters of buildings spaced alongside the road—these are not even “small towns”—are still quite sturdy tiny communities, and show a mixture of prosperity, eclecticism, and economic confusion. Grocery stores double as mechanic shops; stone workers (making marble housing items such as stone lions and even baseball players) mix with slat producers, which are everywhere. Elm wood producers with elaborate unfinished trunks sit by the side of chicken coops. A group of boys plays half-court basketball amidst chickens, dogs, and leftover grain from the earlier “drying” phases of local agriculture. If this were the NBA, little kids with towels would run out during pauses in the action to sweep away the stray corn.
The starkest example, though, appears on a sign in a small roadside community about an hour out of Changsha.
Well Water
Air-Conditioning Refills
Wheel and Tire Repair
Pig Washing
Hogwash. 

We rumble down the road. As the bus nears Nanyue (South Peak), the little town at the edge of the mountain, I focus on keeping my tongue in my mouth. This has nothing to do with speech; all of my seatmates are sleeping, in any case. No one wants to talk. No, the road is so bumpy that a misplaced tongue could be a severed one. It reminds me of the passage in Around the World in Eighty Days, when Passepartout is given the advice that bus travelers in Hunan should note well. Elephant, bus—same issue.

Phileas Fogg and Sir Francis Cromarty, plunged to the neck in the peculiar howdahs provided for them, were horribly jostled by the swift trotting of the elephant, spurred on as he was by the skilful Parsee; but they endured the discomfort with true British phlegm, talking little, and scarcely able to catch a glimpse of each other. As for Passepartout, who was mounted on the beast's back, and received the direct force of each concussion as he trod along, he was very careful, in accordance with his master's advice, to keep his tongue from between his teeth, as it would otherwise have been bitten off short. The worthy fellow bounced from the elephant's neck to his rump, and vaulted like a clown on a spring-board; yet he laughed in the midst of his bouncing, and from time to time took a piece of sugar out of his pocket, and inserted it in Kiouni's trunk, who received it without in the least slackening his regular trot.[1]

Treats for the bus drivers might not be far off in my future trips through the back roads of China’s provinces. Cigarettes. Salty snacks. Dried fish. Smooth roads. Lowered speeds.
As the bus nears the Hengshan district, I begin to see a single Chinese character, repeated hundreds of times over the space of several kilometers, at roadside stands, restaurants, and grocery shops. If only flashcards worked like this, language learning would be easy.
 香
 Fragrance, incense, Texas tea. Throughout South Peak and all along the road, incense is the fuel that drives peoples trips to 壽嶽, Longevity Mountain, as it is popularly called. Burning incense at “useful” locations is the reason most people come here. The suppliers are everywhere, and all sell the same product. Pilgrims practice a kind of divinatory economics that “spends” incense in a wide array of temples and shrines. There are far too many places to express devotion for even a truckload of incense sticks. One must plan…plan.
[c] City  RL
Reaching the city itself, it seems that every shop functions as an incense seller, and only a few have expanded to sell beverages, snacks, and maps. Incense is the big seller, and nothing else comes close to equaling it. It is all incense, water bottles, towels, fish snacks, nuts, cigarettes, backpacks, more incense…and maps.

And maps. An enormous number of South Peak stores have extra large, excellently detailed maps of the southern mountain. They are wall-sized, and placed on sturdy poster board. There are no fold marks. This contrasts with the puny, half-page maps of the mountain available to the rest of us. The difference is stark, and I—an admirer of beautiful maps—mention this to several store owners. All just shrug and say a variation of “we just have them (and they would not be for sale in any case, even if you could find a way to get it home).” There is nothing particularly special about them now, since most are grease-spotted and aging. They reflect, however, in their archaeological urgency, a time about a decade ago when local commercial operators—a version of the Chamber of Commerce, perhaps—stressed uniformity and knowledge of the mountain. Now they sit in every restaurant and incense shop in town, slowly aging on the walls or in the windows, while active climbers carry pathetic little slivers of paper that pretend to be maps.

I find my hotel and admire its wall-sized copy of a painting of the southern mountain’s seventy-two peaks, completed in the Ming dynasty (1368-1644). The receptionist notices my interest, calls me over, hands me one of the ubiquitous little maps, and says “Here you go!”

I smile and thank her.

[1] Jules Verne, Around the World in Eighty Days (New York: Penguin Classics, 2004), 56.

Bibliography
Verne, Jules. Around the World in Eighty Days. New York: Penguin Classics, 2004.
[d] Parallelism  RL
Longevity Mountain 1          Longevity Mountain 2          Longevity Mountain 3          Longevity Mountain 4 
Longevity Mountain 5          Longevity Mountain 6          Longevity Mountain 7          Longevity Mountain 8
Longevity Mountain 9          Longevity Mountain 10        Longevity Mountain 11        Longevity Mountain 12

NEXT
Always the Southern Entrance
We will walk through the temple at the base of the mountain...in the correct direction.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Longevity Mountain (2)—Mao and Then

[a] Shaoshan  RL
During the last two weeks of July and into early August I will be posting segments from my project dealing with five Chinese mountains that are often referred to as "the sacred mountains of China." They represent each of the "five directions" found in early Chinese thought (think of the ones you know and then add the middle as the fifth); they have figured prominently in Chinese political culture, travel, and religion for 3,000 years. I have spent almost 400 days on the mountains, and am working on a series of books that detail the mountains and their "home" areas. Mountains were said to connect earth (thought to be "square") with heaven (thought to be "round"). The entire project is called—this may or may not surprise you—Round and Square.

One volume is planned for each mountain, beginning with the southern peak, Mt. Heng, in Hunan province. The reasoning behind this choice of a starting place took me months to develop, but suffice it to say that these books will take the reader up and down each of the five sacred (sometimes called "Daoist") mountains and around the lunar calendar in an exploration of Chinese life and culture. As an introduction to the series, I have included an introduction that is based on a recent book proposal and a full "sample" table of contents. These are followed by nine "scenes" from Longevity Mountain that are meant to give readers a sense of the project as a whole. Photographs used in this series were taken during my travels, unless otherwise indicated. My photos are marked "RL."

Scene Two
Mao and Then
The bus pulls into Shaoshan, a modest little city that reminds me of the sacred mountain towns where I have been living. I am on a tour today, and I have always vowed to accept the consequences—when in Shaoshan do as the Shaoshanians do. I have always taken pride—a dangerous thing, as any number of thinkers have warned—in my ability to react to a social situation and remain in tune with it. Indeed, I sometimes fear that “grandma’s lessons” have been too well taught, and that I am too quick to calm the waters and seek social harmony for its own sake. Students have occasionally noted that I snuff out discord in class sooner than might be warranted for a full display of views. I tend to err on the side of calm ripples on the communal waters, and this is a theme that I suspect will occupy my Chinese travels.
[b] Loyalty and filial piety 


I am ready. I can handle megaphones and tour group flags. I will even consider wearing a tour group cap, if they require them (they don’t). I booked a seat on a tour; I will be a tourist. This isn’t the Wisconsin Dells, after all. I am on board.

Or so I thought. Into a little gift shop we go—eighty legs moving in queue, eighty arms positioned to point toward bargains, eighty eyes checking prices and objects. Forty heads face a large portrait of Mao Zedong. Thirty-nine heads bow low…and stay low for what seems like minutes. There is a sound of sobbing in one corner, and physical displays of devotion in another. No one sees me; everyone looks at the portrait.

I can’t do it. I just can’t.

I go through a perfunctory “I don’t want to stand out as a jerk” nod, but I feel a wave of revulsion. It is not Mao. Really. I teach history for a living. I have spent enough of my life studying imperfect human beings who held great power to be particularly bothered by that. There is nothing political about this, hard though that might be to believe in a politicized world. It is all on me, and I don’t really understand what is going on, or why I feel the way I do. I remember being told, long ago in Taiwan, that I would have to make at least a partial bow toward the corpse of Chiang Kai-shek in his temporary resting place in Cihu. It was twenty-five years ago, but I negotiated it with aplomb. It is not—certainly not—a feeling of affection for the one figure or hostility toward the other. Brother Chiang had enormous talent, yet it was squandered in the petty politics that plagued China since the Opium Wars. I had a load of contempt for him back in 1985, too. But I bowed. I just can’t understand it, even to this day. Mao had his flaws—big ones. I am capable of nodding, anyway.

No, the only way I can explain it is to cite age, impatience, and Alexis de Tocqueville. I am both more and less culturally tolerant than I was a quarter century ago, and I feel the right at least to an opinion when I hear throat-clearing spit in an upscale coffee shop in Changsha or people staring at foreigners and talking about them as though they were in a zoo. That has been, and likely will be, a theme of my mountain year—a combination of cultural admiration and aging exasperation. No, the revulsion I feel was noted by Alexis de Tocqueville even before the first Opium War. There is nothing simple about this passage, and it works both ways—upon the devoted bowers, as it were, and the intransigent American who really does not know why he is disgusted. In both cases, Tocqueville is pointing out a kind of reaction few of us understand, no matter what part of the room we occupy. It “explains” both of us—the bowing Chinese tourist and the flabbergasted foreigner.
 There exists a patriotism which springs mainly from that instinctive, disinterested, and indefinable feeling which binds a man’s heart to his birthplace. This unreflecting love blends with the liking for ancient customs, respect for ancestors, and the memories of the past. Those who experience it cherish their homeland as they love their father’s house. They love the peace they find there; they are attached to the quiet habits they have formed there; they are tied to the memories it recalls, even feel a tenderness in their life of obedience. Often this patriotism is also intensified by religious fervor which then works wonders. It is itself a sort of religion; it does not reason, it believes, feels, and acts. Some nations have in a sense personified their country and have seen this personification in the prince himself. They have thus transferred to him some of the feelings which compose patriotism; they feel pride in his triumphs and have boasted of his power. Time was under the old monarchy, when the French experienced a kind of joy in surrendering themselves irrevocably to the arbitrary will of the monarch and were wont to say proudly: “We live under the most powerful king in the world.”[1]

Tocqueville’s passage actually passes through my mind, but I am too far gone by this point. I know that I shouldn’t do it, but I walk up to the tour leader and tell her that I am leaving. I finish by saying that I will meet the bus before it is scheduled to leave Shaoshan at 4:00. She is startled, and tells me:

          —You can’t do it. 

I reply that I am going to do it, and that she is free of any responsibility for me, including waiting with the bus if I am late. If I am not there, just leave. I honestly don’t want to do so, but I am making a scene. Her megaphone drops to her side, and a flash of anger appears in her eyes.

          —Wait here.

She gets pen and paper and writes out a contract, of sorts, explaining that I am renouncing any pre-paid meals, any admission to exhibit halls, any paraphernalia. I read it quickly and sign. I can’t wait to get away, and I find myself almost running away from the group.

And then I stop, not quite fifty steps from the scene I have caused. Seventy-eight eyes follow me.
[c] Leaving Shaoshan  RL
I realize immediately that I am out of line—that a tour group remains a group, loose though it may be, and that I have severed the bonds of sociality. In addition, I have embarrassed the tour leader in front of her followers. I turn, and walk back a few steps, explaining that my foreign habits are different, and I am afraid that I will intrude. I am very sorry; it is entirely my fault, and I hope that she and my tour companions do not take offense. I do not want to spoil a joyful day for my friends. I am from a different country, and I do not understand some of your ways. I am deeply sorry for any misunderstanding I have caused.

It is a halfhearted effort, and the result is predictable. She gives a halfhearted nod of understanding, and I have taken a small amount of the burden I have dumped upon her back onto myself. As my seatmate told me on the return trip to Changsha, “You really shouldn’t have done that.”  He explained that he has always thought of doing something similar—just fleeing, to be on his own—but he just couldn’t bring himself to do it, so fearful was he of the words of others. 

[1] Alexis de Tocqueville, Democracy in America (New York: Penguin Classics, 2003), 686. 

Bibliography
Tocqueville, Alexis de. Democracy in America [Translated by Gerald Bevan].  New York: Penguin Classics, 2003). 

Longevity Mountain 1          Longevity Mountain 2          Longevity Mountain 3          Longevity Mountain 4 
Longevity Mountain 5          Longevity Mountain 6          Longevity Mountain 7          Longevity Mountain 8
Longevity Mountain 9          Longevity Mountain 10        Longevity Mountain 11        Longevity Mountain 12

NEXT
The Road to South Peak
The ride to the little village at the foot of the mountain is bumpy, but it is a window onto southern China and a changing world.

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Longevity Mountain (1)—Summer Wanderings

[a] Wandering RL
During the last two weeks of July and into early August I will be posting segments from my project dealing with five Chinese mountains that are often referred to as "the sacred mountains of China." They represent each of the "five directions" found in early Chinese thought (think of the ones you know and then add the middle as the fifth); they have figured prominently in Chinese political culture, travel, and religion for 3,000 years. I have spent almost 400 days on the mountains, and am working on a series of books that detail the mountains and their "home" areas. Mountains were said to connect earth (thought to be "square") with heaven (thought to be "round"). The entire project is called—this may or may not surprise you—Round and Square.

One volume is planned for each mountain, beginning with the southern peak, Mt. Heng, in Hunan province. The reasoning behind this choice of a starting place took me months to develop, but suffice it to say that these books will take the reader up and down each of the five sacred (sometimes called "Daoist") mountains and around the lunar calendar in an exploration of Chinese life and culture. As an introduction to the series, I have included an introduction that is based on a recent book proposal and a full "sample" table of contents. These are followed by nine "scenes" from Longevity Mountain that are meant to give readers a sense of the project as a whole. Photographs used in this series were taken during my travels, unless otherwise indicated. My photos are marked "RL."
Scene One
Summer Wanderings  
Hunan province is hot and humid as I arrive in the provincial capital of Changsha on a late June day. It is the end of the fifth lunar month, and it is time for me to climb the southern mountain, known to almost everyone in China by its “other name” as longevity mountain (壽嶽). The southern mountain is the mountain of summer, and all of the cosmological elements have come together in a palpably wet summer heat.
[b] Qufu  R
In Changsha, I organize my climbing materials, but first I take a side-trip, as I will do on each of the mountains, as I seek to tie the timeless tightly together with the timely. The mountains are my focus, but everywhere I go, people talk about other popular destinations. It is uncanny, but each sacred mountain has a powerful “non-sacred” location that is in each case immensely more popular than a four-hour uphill hike up rocky sacrality. I have let my fellow travelers’ questions guide my choices. In Shandong province in the east, I am constantly asked “Have you been to Qufu—Confucius’s birthplace?” In Shaanxi province in the west, the question is “Have you seen the terra cotta soldiers?” When I am in Hunan province, here in the south, the question is just as urgent: “Have you been to Mao Zedong’s birthplace in Shaoshan?”
So it is that I board a steamy little bus in the morning heat, and sit—my head hanging out the window, hoping for a chance of a breeze—as I endure the routine, so common with rural buses, of waiting until there are enough passengers to justify a trip. It is a treat, of sorts, to reach the bus “just in time,” and, as the bus revs up the engine, to take one of the unappreciated seats near the back, within full range of the open window. Today, I am not so lucky. I am the second person on the bus, and we wait forty-five minutes while potential pilgrims slowly fill the seats, still picking their teeth from leisurely hotel breakfasts.
[c] Southern green  RF
At 9:30 the bus inches its way through traffic out of Changsha, and then opens up briefly on the highway before slowing to a bumpy crawl on a secondary road surrounded by lush fields at the height of the summer growing season. Little huts are positioned at the intersection of the fields. Even today, men and boys beyond adolescence live in them throughout the summer, tending to every detail of the growing season. While older men learn to take whatever rest the evening offers them, the young teem with summer energy, even after a long day in the fields. I cannot help but think of the famous lines from the Classic of Poetry, in which a maiden is tempted by, but ultimately declines, the nighttime wooing of her betrothed. Surely, young Zhongzi stole away from a little fieldside hut, racing to call on her at her family home. She longs for her lover, to be sure, but she fears the words of others.
Do not be mistaken; the fear of others’ opinions has everything to do with understanding China—today and 3,000 years into the past.
          Please, Zhongzi 
          Do not climb into our hamlet, 
          Do not break our willow trees. 
          It’s not that I begrudge the willows, 
          But I fear my father and mother. 
          You I would embrace, 
          But my parents’ words— 
          Those I dread. 

          Please Zhongzi, 
          Do not leap over our wall, 
          Do not break our mulberry trees. 
          It’s not that I begrudge the mulberries, 
          But I fear my brothers. 
          You I would embrace, 
          But my brother’s words— 
          Those I dread. 

          Please, Zhongzi, 
          Do not climb into our yard, 
          Do not break our rosewood tree, 
          It’s not that I begrudge the rosewood, 
          But I fear gossip. 
          You I would embrace, 
          But people’s words, 
          Those I dread.[1] 

My “travel companion,” Marcel Granet (1884-1940) takes the same idea a step further, shrouding it in the seasonal activity of divided labor and the preoccupations of youth. He taps into the sociology of love and longing, and the result is nervous daughters and ostentatious sons who wish to take their spring engagements one steamy evening further before their inevitable autumn betrothals.

Their first unions were celebrated in the Festivals of Spring, but they could set up house only after the Autumn Festivals. As long as the work in the fields lasted, even old couples were kept apart; nor were suitors allowed to join their betrothed except by night and furtively. They jumped the hedges and, hiding from their kin, courted each other; especially at the full moon, they sang their aubades, taking great care not to be surprised by the cock crow.
These meetings at night were doubtless chaste. The opposition of the sexes was so strong that a long preparation and favorable times were needed to bring them together; sexual union seemed so frightening that it was forbidden for long periods. But when it was allowed and regulated, when in the spring festivals all the young people of the community came together for the first time, what a unique and moving moment it was![2]

[e] Dreamy  RF
Marcel Granet was the quintessential poet of Chinese social life, and I carry his books with me to every mountain. Thinking of these lines, and staring into the green fields, I imagine tired lads walking—dazed but dreamy—behind the ox-pulled plow (I have yet to see a tractor), reliving the excitement of sneaking away from the raised hut, surprising his beloved, and enjoying the first fruits of a steamy Hunan summer night (doubtless chaste...) before sneaking back to his knowing male kinfolk in the early hours, before the cock crow. It was an exquisite exhaustion that would soon be extinguished after the early months of matrimony. Several years later, he, too, would sleep all night after a long day’s work.
Mao Zedong (1893-1976) never read Granet, as far as I know, but he surely knew the lines above from the Classic of Poetry. Everyone educated in China in the last twenty-five centuries knows them. This was Mao’s home, and, as the bus bumps along slowly, I imagine a teenaged Mao—just nine years younger than Granet, reading translated verses from Baudelaire half a world away—sneaking away on hot summer nights for rendezvous with comely mountain daughters.
          —Now this is countryside. Ever seen anything like it?
I am startled from my reverie by my young seatmate, who has noticed me staring out the window. I think to myself, “I have—I grew up in eastern North Dakota, the most fertile farmland in the world, where you can pick up a clump of rich, black earth and just see the crops that will sprout from its fecundity.”
          —No, this is amazing. How lush. How beautiful.
[f] Xiang Yu opera mask  P
Hunan really is one of the rice-baskets of China, and it is known for its spicy food and famous people. If Virginia and Ohio are considered the birthplaces of American presidents, then Hunan plays a role that at least vies with Minnesota. Emperors come from Henan (“river-south”), several hundred kilometers to the north. Historical figures who fought bravely, only to lose in the end, come from here in Hunan (“lake south”), where iconic figures such as Xiang Yu and Liu Shaoqi[3] would recognize Harold Stassen, Hubert Humphrey, and Walter Mondale

Mao is the exception, rising from peasant boy to local figure (that had been done before) to military leader (that, too, had been done), and ultimately to the leader of a people-powered movement (done once before—in the Taiping Rebellion) that carried it to power and a new political order (that is unprecedented). 

I focus on this thought as the bus lumbers on to Shaoshan. 

[1] Patricia Ebrey, Chinese Civilization: A Sourcebook (New York: Free Press, 1993), 11.
[2] Marcel Granet, The Religion of the Chinese People (New York: Harper & Row, 1974), 44.
[3] The irony here is palpable (check the link).

Bibliography
Ebrey, Patricia. Chinese Civilization: A Sourcebook. New York: Free Press, 1993.
Granet, Marcel. The Religion of the Chinese People. New York: Harper & Row, 1974.   

Longevity Mountain 1          Longevity Mountain 2          Longevity Mountain 3          Longevity Mountain 4 
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Mao and Then
The bus pulls in to Shaoshan—Mao Zedong's boyhood home. I am startled by...how much I am startled by...the teeming veneration before me.